Shimano / ALFINE

ALFINE SG-S500

General:

Reviews / Announcements:

  • Alfine Test im Velojournal gegen Sram i-Motion (Comparison: Alfine vs i-Motion 9 and finally i-Motion 9 wins with 5:4 points!)
  • Alfine Test im Velojournal gegen SRAM i-MOTION 9 (Comparison: Alfine vs i-MOTION 9 and finally i-MOTION 9 wins with 5:4 points!
    • When you need a silent, easy shifting hub take the Shimano Alfine. When you need a real gear more, harmonical gear steps and a easy mounting and dismounting hub go for the SRAM i-MOTION 9.)
      • Shifting: Both hubs can shift under load. Alfine shifts a little bit easier and smother under high load and uphill because of “SilentClutch”free wheel design with cylindric rollers instead of classic ratchets. (Alfine: 2 Points)
      • Gearshift Lever: With the STI shifter from Shimano only one gear per movmentcan be shifted. With the rotary handle (Grip Shift) design more gears can be shifted in one movement. Also the gear indication is bigger and better recognized (i-MOTION 9: 1 Point)
      • Gear Ratio:i-MOTION 9 has always one gear more. One higher or one lower gear than the Shimano hub. (i-MOTION 9: 1 Point)
      • Gear Steps:i-MOTION 9 has thesmaller gear step size between the gears. They are also nearly all the same size. When cycling with the Alfine you have sometimes the feeling that the actual gear is to “samll” and the next higher to “big”. (i-MOTION 9: 1 Point)
      • Braksystem: Both offer a disc brake and rim brake option (Alfine: 1 Point, i-MOTION 9: 1 Point)
      • Weight: Alfine 1590g, i-MOTION-9 1980g (Alfine: 1 Point)
      • Wheel Mounting / Dismounting: Sram uses the “Easy Click Connector” like Rohloff. Shimano takes some time! (i-MOTION 9: 1 Point)
  • Alfine Artikel von aktiv Radfahren. Nicht besonders kritisch! (Not very critical article!)
  • 7 Schaltsysteme im Test vom Radtouren Magazin (Review of 7 component groups)
  • Internal Gear Hub Comparison on Hubstripping.com
  • Shimano Announcment for Alfine group

Maintenance / Installation Documents:

Drawings / Spareparts:

Pictures:

Hubstripping:

  • Alfine hubstrip pictures (seperate slide folder)
  • Alfine movie 1(Planetary gear with the Alfine specific two clamp roller mechanism on the left (white ring with silver roller cylinders and the grey metalic ring with silver roller cylinders in the middle of the gear system). The other Nexus hubs use a classic ratchet mechanism to transfer the rotation of the internal gear system to the inner hub shell. The roller mechanism is silence. There is no clicking sound! Another advantage is that the rotation force is transfered by more roller contact lines to the hub shell compared to a ratchet mechanism. Result: Higher force transformation efficiency!)
  • Alfine movie 2(A view into the planetary gear system of the Alfine Hub. The planet gear carrier rotates and turns the three planet gears. The sun gear is fixed in the middle of the system. In movie 6 you see the same parts after degreasing the whole system and lubrication with a specific oil.)
  • Alfine movie 3(It´s obvious to see the high friction inside the gear system because of the grease. The whole system moves on the desk! In the last part you see how the silver roller cylinders of the clamp roller mechanism move out of the fixing ring.)
  • Alfine movie 4(The second roller mechanism in a cleaned status. See how the silver roller cylinders of the clamp roller mechanism move out of the fixing ring.)
  • Alfine movie 5(After degreasing and lubrication the whole systems runs much easier than before. Great sound!)
  • Alfine movie 6(After degreasing and lubrication the whole systems runs much easier than before. This effect is also described in this post)

111 Replies

  1. andrew martin

    November 14, 2007 at 9:49 pm

    I’m interested in the Alfine 8sp, but I want to run it with a rim brake and spaced down to 120mm OLD. Is it possible to replace spacers to get it down to something close to 120? I know the Nexus8 can go to 123mm. Any thoughts?

    Reply
    • oar8

      September 6, 2009 at 8:08 am

      My first Nexus was a SG-7C20 bought as a complete new wheel. It laid around for a few years waiting on components to get it to work. Harris Cycle helped and I got the cassette joint and the bike is working, even without anti-rotation washers. It has 20T/41T/53T with an Alfine tensioner and wheels are 26 inch with fairly narrow street tires. Right now it is mainly used with the 53T since terrain around the office is pretty flat.

      The second SG-S500 Alfine came on a 2007 Rocky Mountain Metropolis hybrid bike. As compared to my 20lb Litespeed Obed modified for street use, it loses speed too quickly up a steep hill near my house. But the low end is low enough that I can still make it up the hill. This bike has 700C rims and tires are narrow street tires. Going downhill is great. The cogs are 16T/42T.

      The third one is a SG-8R20. It was a used hub bought on eBay. Unfortunately it has grinding noise. Now I am contemplating what to do with it.

      Reply
  2. Marco

    November 16, 2007 at 10:31 pm

    Hi Andrew,

    I just stripped a Alfine and can give you the following advice.

    http://hubstripping.wordpress.com/2007/11/14/shimano-alfine-hub-strips/

    http://www.hubstripping.com/shimano-alfine/shimano-alfine-explosion-hub-SG-S500.pdf

    Replace part 25 in the explosion drawing with another part 20 (You have to order this seperate! It´s a generall hub part! A good bicycle dealer has this on stock.).

    After this replacement you have reduced the OLD by 5,4mm. There are no other possibilities in my eyes.

    Gruß Marco

    Reply
  3. Sam

    February 12, 2008 at 3:40 pm

    Am trying to find out what the cable pull per click is on the Alfine shifter – anyone know?

    Reply
  4. leon woodbine

    April 12, 2008 at 4:06 pm

    Hello Marco,
    What oil do you recommend for the internal parts of the Alfine hub? I am using good grease for the bearings, would like to try an “oil bath”.
    Thanks

    Reply
  5. Marco

    April 13, 2008 at 8:50 pm

    Leon Woodbine,

    the oil I use has a higher viscosity than standard bicycle oil used for the chains.

    I´ll open my Duomatic hub in the next weeks. This hub was degreased and lubricated with the high viscosity oil in Spring last year. So we´ll have soon the possebility to see a one year result.

    Gruß,
    Marco

    Reply
  6. Puzzled

    May 29, 2008 at 6:06 pm

    Hi There.
    I was wondering where the difference in O.L.D. between Inter-8 (132 mm) and Alfine (135) comes from. There is also a “dishing distance” of 3.1 mm indicated for the Alfine (in some drawing I cannot find any more), so to me it looks like Shimano widened the O.L.D. by adding a 3 mm washer at one axle end, and then offsetting the rim. Can anyone explain? Can an Alfine be reduced in width to make it fit in a steel 130 mm frame?

    Reply
  7. Puzzled

    May 30, 2008 at 11:09 am

    Regarding reducing O.L.D. of the Alfine:
    SG-S500 parts diagram shows locknuts 25 and 20 to have 10.7 mm and 5.4 mm respectively.
    SG-8R35 diagram has a locknut 17 with 3.4 mm.
    If one would replace S-G500 locknuts 25 and 20 with two locknuts 17 (3.4 mm), you could reduce the O.L.D. by (10.7 + 5.4)-(3.4 + 3.4) = 9.3 mm, which would reduce the Alfine O.L.D. to 125.7 mm. This would be the max. possible reduction but other combinations of the three available lock nuts would allow for more widths between 125.7 mm and 135 mm.
    When changing O.L.D. I think one should also change the dishing of the rim, otherwise the rim will not be in the center of the wheel.

    Reply
  8. Kurt

    July 4, 2008 at 4:41 pm

    I know I’m late to this thread but I am intrigued about changing lubrication for more ’sportive’ purpose. I have a Nexus SG-7R40 which I believe to be an early model, in fact I can’t find a blowup of it on the net. It shifts fine and seems to work fine but it also does seem like there would clearly be an advantage to using a high-viscosity oil in there along with grease. I think I saw that you had used some motorcycle oil, could you be a little more specific perhaps so that I could find something similar? Also if anyone has any info – manual/parts blowup/etc on the SG-7R40 it would be greatly appreciated.

    Reply
  9. ixi

    July 12, 2008 at 3:51 pm

    Does any one know the weight of the individual Alfine component weight? The pulished Alfine SG-S500 hub weight is 1590g, but does it includes the sproket/guard & the cassette joint? What about the weight of the chain tensioner? I hope there is an internal hub enthusiast could answer this. I searched the web high and low and no such info available.

    Reply
  10. John N Smirneos

    August 5, 2008 at 7:40 am

    Hello,

    I would like to know if someone has pictures (or a diagram) demostrating the inside of the hub’s shell (Motion-9 or Alfine) without the rest of the gear mech.
    I would like to know if i can strip a geared hub from i’s shell & then use a shell of my own, a gearbox carter for a mountain bike.
    The main idea is to combine a 9 speed & a 3 speed hub into a common shell that will function as a gearbox.

    So, if the hub;s original shells have pressed in some gearrings then it would be really hard to do so, exepti if these gearrings are removable.

    Thank you all.

    John

    Reply
  11. Bob Carter

    August 6, 2008 at 1:02 am

    John, the alfine shell does not have gear rings – final drive to it is via one of 2 “roller ratchets” – these use a roller and ramp in place of pawls & are why the alfine is silent compared to other hubs. These run in 2 hardened steel rings let into the aluminium casing.
    re: weights – the shifter is peanuts weight & chain tensioner – depends what you buy – or zero if you have non-vertical dropouts! I’d guess around 50g for a cheap one.

    Reply
  12. John N Smirneos

    August 6, 2008 at 1:43 pm

    Thank’s Bob.

    I see. I guess that it would be better to get this part and strip it myself in order to see things from first hand!
    You post-answer is really helpfull.

    Do you know if the same goes on for Rohloff too? (i mean that if you get appart the hub’s shell does the main shell include any press-in gears?
    Or they are all into the disk-side shell cup?
    And,
    I have an alternative that may be done with a custom hub shell (Tune do manufacture an alternative Rohloff hub shell, if only they would answer to my e-mails…..)

    John

    Reply
  13. John B

    August 27, 2008 at 3:58 am

    I have a question about changes that Shimano has made to the Alfine hub. The new part number listed is SG-S501 instead of SG-S500 and the parts list on the exploded view has changed slightly. I can’t tell by looking at the diagram what they did, and no one at Shimano America seems to know either. Any ideas?

    http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/SG/EV-SG-S500-2637B_v1_m56577569830637991.pdf

    http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/SG/EV-SG-S501-2788A_v1_m56577569830646705.pdf

    Reply
    • leonwoodbine

      September 9, 2009 at 6:11 am

      They added an additional roller clutch in place of a ratchet assembly. That makes the 501 completely ratchet free and improves the quietness and smoothness of the internal assembly. An excellent upgrade, and I’m sure Shimano will incorporate that in more and more 3 and 8sp hubs as the new models come out. I’m glad mine is a 501, its worth it!

      Reply
  14. albert

    September 6, 2008 at 2:18 am

    i just purchased the Silver Alfine Hub – mine came with NO chain guard, and the instructions are very vague about assembly. When i put it together with the 20t Cog and 2 dust seals, dust cap, snap ring and cassette Joint assembly, i can NOT get the Cassette LOCK to turn, it seems as if the Metal Dust caps are too thick. I Bought this From Harris Cyclery, i do not know if mine is a U.S. or Euro Model. My Question is about the LOCK, should it be VERY Difficult to TURN it to the LOCK position, i can not get mine ON. .THANKS!

    Reply
  15. JdrDS17

    September 12, 2008 at 10:40 pm

    Purchased an Alfine a bit ago and have ~10 hrs and 75 mi of fairly agressive XC use on it – no problems so far.

    Re weight: For the full assembly consisting of hub, dust cap, inner chain guard, 20T sprocket w/outer guard, snap ring, driver cap, cassette joint, cassette joint fixing ring, 1 pr no turn washers, and 1 pr supplied shimano acorn axle nuts, the total weight is 1847 grams. Also, the shifter is not light at 223 grams for the shifter, cable, full length housing, and cable fixing bolt.

    Re cable pull: total pull is 38.9mm. Each shift looks to be an equal amount of pull since a measurement at gear 4 confirmed a linear interpolation.

    Reply
  16. Pouletic

    September 16, 2008 at 2:20 am

    Following Puzzled’s formula to reduce the OLD to 125.7 mm, i calculate the following numbers to plug into a spoke-length calculator:

    Dishing: 6.75
    Flange-to-Flange (center) 54.1
    PCD: 92.6

    Left Right
    offset offset
    20.3 33.8

    I share those numbers to help others looking at a custom build for their 120mm dropout bikes and also to look for verification from someone who has done this before…

    I want to build up a custom wheel. Does anyone know if triple-butted DT spokes like the Alpine III (13/16/14) will fit through the hub (ie big enough holes)? I can’t find any information on actual spoke hole diameter.

    Mavic A719 36H with a 36H Alfine and DT Alpine III ought to last through WWIII. :)

    Reply
  17. Pouletic

    September 16, 2008 at 6:32 pm

    To answer my own question: it seems, from the information for previous Nexus hubs in the spocalc spreadsheet available on Sheldon’s page, that the 13 gauge triple butted Alpine III spokes would fit in any Shimano IGH — the problem is that they aren’t available in enough lengths (at least not in the US) for that to matter. For a Mavic A719, i need spokes about 280-282 mm long, depending on which calculator i use, and there’s nothing near that range in an Alpine III. The Competition 14/15 seems to be more available so i guess that’s the way to go. Pity.

    The good news is that these hubs are finally becoming available in the US.

    Reply
  18. rickel

    September 26, 2008 at 9:54 pm

    How can i by one Shimano alfine?

    Reply
  19. bob carter

    September 26, 2008 at 11:18 pm

    Albert, difficulty fitting the lock could mean that something else isn’t on quite right. Is the sprocket the right thickness & seating properly (they seem to give you a lot of stuff with potential to go between sprocket & hub). Is the supplied circlip seating properly? (test by trying to pull the sprocket of by hand – have a good grapple with it. If you succeed, it wasn’t!) I usually give the circlip a series of light taps via a screwdriver to be sure it’s seating. You can fit a normal circlip in place of the supplied one, but I find this fouls on the changer. When you line up all the red dots on the changer to fit it – give it all a little wiggle to be sure it’s joggled down properly. The lock ring should now click into place with a nice positive feel to it, it’s stiffish but not ludicrously so.

    Reply
  20. Nick

    October 9, 2008 at 11:50 pm

    @Bob Carter
    Bob, you commented on using the Nexus-8 over the Alfine for efficiency reasons for an electric vehicle, did this bear out or was this a break in / wear in related?

    Reply
  21. bob carter

    October 10, 2008 at 1:34 am

    Did I Nick? My belief is that the alfine is probably ultimately more efficient, but my experience is that you get a big benefit from a few hundred miles running in. So I expect that our old nexus will probably outperform the new alfine for a few races. It’s very difficult to draw firm conclusions from performance on a day because there are so many other variables. Manufacturers don’t seem to give efficiency data, probably for this reason. Rohloff actually claim 98%, but the only independent comparative study I’ve seen measured it down in the low 90’s – though shimano nexus & sram were in the high 80s (%) – all measured on new gears.
    One of the other race teams has built a very impressive dyno so I’ll relay their results when I get ‘em.

    Reply
  22. Nick

    October 10, 2008 at 1:57 am

    It just wasn’t clear about why you switched to the Nexus.

    Rohloffs seem great but I can replace a Shimano 5 times over for the price of a Rohloff.

    I have yet to find definitive data on the Shimano’s efficiency, although I have seen a bunch of the Rohloff data, so it seems like the Alfine is a great place to start. Thanks Bob, any more info you have would be great, because these gear hubs seem like an economical choice for maximizing efficiency of small electric vehicles. I’m in the process of developing a dyno test for some brushless motors that I can’t get characteristic data on from the manufacturer.

    Reply
  23. Pouletic

    November 9, 2008 at 3:00 pm

    Marco, in an earlier post, you describe the only possible changes to reduce O.L.D. being a replacement of part 20 with part 25. I see from Shimano’s exploded diagram of the Nexus 8 and Alfine hubs that they don’t consider the lock nuts on the two types of hubs interchangeable, and you seem to feel the same as you didn’t describe using one of the very narrow Nexus locknuts to decrease the Alfine O.L.D. more. I really would like to reduce the O.L.D. more.

    Would you please comment on whether the Nexus locknuts are not listed as compatible with the Alfine due simply to their different length, or because they are not compatible diameters and thread pitch? Is the locknut threading on the Alfine axle compatible with any standard locknut parts so that I might find a narrower one elsewhere?

    Thank you for any help you can offer.

    Reply
  24. Nadocherokee

    November 11, 2008 at 6:04 am

    Hello,
    Just purchased an Alfine and had Harris build up a custom wheel. I absolutely love everything about the setup except for the fact that I miss my Surly tuggnuts.

    Does anyone know if there are custom chain tensoners for horizontal dropouts that also double as non-turn washers? I know I would be in the market for a couple. Come on Surly, make it happen!

    Reply
  25. mike

    November 19, 2008 at 6:10 pm

    Is it possible to run a coaster brake from the nexus hub or the drum brake from the nexus set with the alfine hub? Does anyone know?

    Reply
    • Jack

      May 1, 2009 at 4:16 am

      Hi mike!
      I do not think you can, as I cannot see any possibility to mount any other brake than CenterLock to this hub. Anyway I do not see any reason to buy Alfine (than red Nexus) if you want to use other brakes than disc.

      Reply
  26. pierrino mascarino

    November 20, 2008 at 10:17 pm

    Will the Allfine Shimano work with an Optibike 800, an 800W motor. Will such a mechanism damage an Allfine hub?
    Pierrino

    Reply
  27. Anonymous

    November 21, 2008 at 7:46 pm

    Our greenpower cars put an average 420W through the gear hub. We have a nexus 8 with ~2000miles on it and an alfine with ~300miles neither has given any trouble whatsoever. We can turn the power up to over 1000W on occasions (but not for long or the batteries go flat & we don’t finish…..)
    These are running on 16″ wheels (rolling diameter ~42cm)

    Reply
  28. Urb Anwriter

    November 25, 2008 at 11:24 pm

    Bob Carter, any chance of getting any info on your conversion of Nexus hub to oil bath? The picture looks as though you have fitted some form of oil cap (circa S/A AW hub, or similar) or a spring/ball nipple. Any interference problems on hub interior when doing conversion? Thanks.

    Reply
  29. bob carter

    November 26, 2008 at 10:40 pm

    Hi ‘Urb’
    my ‘oil cap’ was just a short M5 posi screw with an o ring under it. You just have to avoid the races inside the outer casing, drill & tap ( don’t tighten the screw up too much either….) Yes, a long screw would foul the innards of the hub, there’s not much clearance!
    The axle bearings are not sealed so if you tip the bike over all the oil will run out – just something to be continually aware of!!!

    Reply
  30. mark

    December 17, 2008 at 10:24 pm

    hi done about 1000miles comuteing on my alfine bike very easy to use no probs so far running on 39×18 with no tensioner & home made shifter bracket on drops

    Reply
  31. mark

    December 17, 2008 at 10:33 pm

    hi all done bout 1000 miles comuteing now on the alfine bike still harder work than normal gears but hard is good . running 39×18 with no tensioner & shifter mounted on bracket in front of drops looks neat n tidy use discs too heavy old girl but bomb proof

    Reply
  32. cyclodog

    December 24, 2008 at 7:45 pm

    Alfine IGH can any 8 speed shifter be used with the hub?

    Reply
  33. Mike

    January 4, 2009 at 2:51 pm

    Hi
    Same question as Cycledog,is there an alternative shifter that can be used on the Nexus 8,for some reason the brakes on my Specialized Globe Comp are useless and i want to fit Magura HS33.but have to loose the Shimano combined unit.
    Has anyone chopped the rapid fire or found an alternative ?
    Regards
    Mike

    Reply
  34. bob carter

    January 4, 2009 at 7:38 pm

    re: alternative shifters, my bike is a drop handlebar road type & I’ve put a twist shifter on the handlebar bracket. And this is MUCH worse than the indexed derraillieur shifters that are built into brake levers. So I’m going to try to make an adapter using a ‘capstan’ with 2 diameters. The nexus cable movement is 3.5mm per gear step, about 50% more than an 8speed indexed system. I’ll link to a photo when I’ve done it (I’ve given up cycling for winter – yeah, I know, lightweight….)

    Reply
  35. Mike

    January 8, 2009 at 5:33 pm

    Hi Bob
    I have just ordered the twist grip shifter(flat bars so hopefully should be OK) No one i could find with a web search had any in the UK,but got one on back order with SJS Cycles so could have it in a week or so can start fitting the Magura brakes.

    Reply
  36. bob carter

    January 9, 2009 at 1:49 am

    Don’t get me wrong – there’s no problem with the operation of the twist shifter, it’s just the wrong thing to have on a drop handlebar bike, & those shimano “push the brake lever sideways” ones are so right!!! So I think it’s worth a bit of effort. On a town bike they’re just the job!

    Reply
  37. Mike

    January 9, 2009 at 11:42 am

    Has anyone done the upgrade from standard Nexus 8 to RedStripe using the components illustrated?
    Are the individual part numbers of these components listed anywhere? is a conversion kit available from Shimano?
    Do the bits cost more than a new hub plus agro?

    Reply
  38. austex

    January 9, 2009 at 10:14 pm

    Bob Carter et al,

    Problem Solvers already make a 2:1 capstan(*) which can be adapted to use a Shimano 8-sp bar-end shifter; optionally includes a cable adjuster, as well. I got one from Harris Cyclery.

    (*-their brake adapter for v-brake to “regular” lever, also available as an in-line version to use mechanical disc brakes w/drop-bar brake levers)

    Reply
  39. austex

    January 9, 2009 at 10:18 pm

    Also, jtek engineering has just introduced a specific bar-end shifter for Alfine/Nexus-8. A bit pricey, but…

    http://www.jtekengineering.com/jtek_bar-end_shifter.htm

    Reply
  40. cyclodog

    January 10, 2009 at 2:36 am

    I have tried a SRAM twist on my 29er commuter with the Alfine IGH. Not the best as Mike suggested.

    Am going all Alfine shifter, cassette joint and drop out washers. Leaving the bike a single speed would have been less work.

    Reply
  41. leon woodbine

    January 10, 2009 at 9:08 pm

    Hi, is anyone interested in a discussion on oils for Alfine hubs? I’ve been using two types with great success, does anyone else have results they would like to share?
    Thanks again for the site Marco!

    Reply
  42. Mike

    January 11, 2009 at 1:54 pm

    Leon
    Fire away
    I have only recently aquired my bike and have done about 60 miles on it so far, judging from the condition of the bike in general i would think the mileage on the hub is negligable.
    Would like to do a change to oil lubrication and once i get it in bits i am pretty sure i could make some seals to keep the runny stuff in place.I have a light grade of oil(hydraulic oil) that i got from a local machine tool supplier(they use it in lathe headstocks) and was going to give that a try but any information you have would be greatfully received.

    Reply
  43. Mike

    January 15, 2009 at 4:08 pm

    Leon
    Spill the beans
    What oils have you been using?
    Any tips regarding mods

    Reply
  44. bob carter

    January 15, 2009 at 10:33 pm

    Automatic transmission fluid Mike – basically cheap low viscosity gear oil. I still have a can for a (manual!) car gearbox I had.

    Reply
  45. leon woodbine

    January 16, 2009 at 5:17 am

    To Bob – how does the ATF lube work below freezing on the
    Alfine? Does it get noticeably sluggish? I might try it – a small bottle is very cheap.
    My current lube for the deep freeze we seem to have right now is synthetic multigrade fork oil. The main advantages I’ve experienced is that it does not damage seals or plastic parts in any way (its designed for use in bicycle forks which have both) and stays in place very well. Oil, any oil will lubricate, but not all stay where you want them to without being thick (high viscosity to be correct). Heavy conventional oils get thick in the deep cold as we all know. (synthetics are much better for that) Sorry, getting off topic – its easy to do talking about bikes! Anyway, this fork oil works very well – its super easy to service the internals(same way as the Shimano method) and doesn’t get sluggish when its really cold. I’ll keep you posted if things change.

    I LOVE MY ALFINE!
    Pete

    Reply
  46. bob carter

    January 18, 2009 at 1:31 am

    No good asking me about cycle parts & freezing weather ;^)
    I would say oil for gearboxes is designed quite differently to hydraulic oil, in particular with regard to “extreme pressure” lubricants (e.g. molybdenum disulphide – hence gear oils “EP” designation). All I know is that ATF is a low viscosity gear oil & I had some; so it went in. ATF probably has other properties to do with the clutch bands in an auto box, I don’t know. The boxes I oiled were both nexus’s (nexi???) but I guess they’re substantially similar. I suspect we won’t be able to make any conclusions for many years regarding lifetime effects, but there is some evidence of reduced friction & a slightly different feel due, I guess, to lack of ‘cushioning’ from the high viscosity/thixotropic grease

    Reply
  47. leon woodbine

    January 18, 2009 at 10:42 pm

    I agree Bob, about the “feel” of the hub with different lubricants. The Shimano factory grease when new had a smoothness that was awesome, like the “cushioning” you mentioned. After switching to the oils, the hub came alive and felt more responsive, with lighter shifter effort. One key difference with the Alfine versus the nexus hubs is the roller clutches. Alfine (to be exact, the B-type Alfine) doesn’t have any ratchets between the internal assembly and the hub shell, versus the others do. Making sure they work freely and engage quickly is important, because they are what move you forward when you push down on the pedal. But not to worry, because Alfine is very maintenance friendly and easy to live with. I expect mine to last for the 10+ years my old Nexus did.

    Reply
  48. Mike

    January 19, 2009 at 5:22 pm

    Thanks for that Guys.
    I will be making the change to oil but as i commented earlier my hub appears to be as new so i am going to have to run it in before switching,also going to have to lower the gear ratios as i am still finding it hard going on my local run and there are only some easy-ish hills, so no chance doing my Ambleside run.
    Still can’t get over the difference in gear changing between derailure and Nexus(love it)
    No luck trying to source the Shimano Twist Shifter,SJS sent me an e-mail saying new stock will not be here till July.

    Reply
  49. UncaJohn

    January 26, 2009 at 9:32 am

    Online shops that stock Alfine hubs

    Hello all(again)
    Do you know any online bike shops that sell the Alfine hub in Europe?
    I guess that it would be a good idea to have an extra linkinto the hubstripping.com with online shops selling these parts (exept if there is and i missed it!)

    UncaJohn

    Reply
  50. Marco

    January 26, 2009 at 9:03 pm

    UncaJohn,

    I appreciate your suggestion to add the hub online shops. Please post your shop links here…

    http://hubstripping.wordpress.com/online-shop/

    You can reach the page via the main hubstripping page.

    Gruß,

    Marco

    Reply
  51. Ron Miller

    January 27, 2009 at 5:30 pm

    Hi guys. I have recently acquired a bike with the Alfine hub. I had to import the bike and therefore set it up myself. I am having trouble with the gear shifting. Despite minor adjustments I still get incomplete gear changes ( occasionally) where the the gear does not select fully until about 100 metres of further pedalling. I have done about 500 miles and was hoping this would just be a running in problem. Any help would be appreciated. Perhaps oil instead of grease ?

    Reply
  52. Anonymous

    January 28, 2009 at 10:58 am

    Hi Ron
    Someone more knowledgable will probably give you better information,but for the Nexus select fourth gear and check alignment of the yellow reference marks on the cassette joint.
    adjust with cable shifter till alligned.try easing up a bit when changing gear.
    Hope that helps.
    Mike

    Reply
  53. cheesy

    January 29, 2009 at 5:06 am

    Hi all,

    I’ve just finished building a commuter bike with a used Alfine hub and new Alfine Rapid Fire shifter.
    Yesterday was the first ride and, even though the temp was only 5F, this has to be the nicest IG hub I’ve ever used. Shifted nicely and absolutely silent.
    I still need to accrue a few more miles on it but if it keeps performing like it does in this Great Lakes winter weather, it’ll be a keeper.
    I plan on switching to oil come spring and would like to do the same to my Sram S7. Any comments on lip seals?

    Reply
  54. Rich Wood

    January 30, 2009 at 9:33 pm

    The English Language link to the Nexus8/Alfine service manual above links to the German language manual. I need the English language version.

    BTW for those interested in gear hubs and geared hub bikes check out the geared hubs Yahoo group linked to above. Click onj my name to visit.

    Reply
  55. stefan zemp

    February 13, 2009 at 11:04 am

    Hello together
    I have a question concernig the front dynamo hub of the alfine group (DH-S501 or DH-3D72): Is it possible to run the dynamo backwards?
    Shimano writes “the connection terminal must be on the right side, otherwise the wheel may not turn properly?”
    What would be the problem? I know that the SON dynamo hubs may “unscrew” – but can this also happen to the shimano hubs? The electrics should still work. Maybe someone with some hub-knowledge can help?

    Reply
  56. krasnoff

    February 14, 2009 at 3:45 pm

    Hello!

    Please, write (explain) me: what the different between Alfine FC-S500 TYP 3 and Alfine FC-S500 TYP 7 ?

    - Typ 3 = Schwarz/170,0 mm 39 Zähne; Kettenschutzring außen; Shimano-Nr. A-FCS500CA9C1L

    - Typ 7 = Schwarz/170,0 mm 39 Zähne; Kettenschutzring außen/innen; Shimano Artikel-Nr. A-FCS500CA9C2L

    Sorry for my English.

    Reply
  57. lastchild

    March 11, 2009 at 3:42 am

    @Pouletic,

    I feel your pain. My observation is such: I removed the large locknut on the NDS, only to find the the axle has two diameters of threads. In short, you can put a thin locknut in place of the thicker one, but you’re still screwed because the larger diameter threads will stick out past the thin locknut. I assume this disparity in thread diameters from DS to NDS will wreak havoc with any style dropout that I’m aware of. This was on a SG-S500. It looks like you’re stuck with 135mm spacing, unless you are a machinist (which I am, and I’m looking into machining a few items on this hub to get the width down. 126mm would be nice… YMMV.

    What is the deal with Shimano’s ‘Cloak of Secrecy’ surrounding their products? Does anyone besides the designer have a clue?

    Reply
    • Evan

      May 17, 2009 at 9:37 am

      lastchild & pouletic,

      I just finished my build of putting an SGS-501 into a BMC time trial frame (don’t ask why). I had to shave about 3.5mm off the locknut (machining not the serrated face). This is a basic task on a lathe which most car repair workshops etc should be able to do.

      I then installed the locknut and used a Dremel tool with a cone shaped griding bit to grind off the outer thread which was obstructing the dropout. I did this slowly but it was all finished in about 15mins and was not that tricky. P.S The OLD of the original SGS-501 was about 133.5 not 135mm.

      Hope this helps.

      Reply
      • curry

        August 25, 2009 at 2:51 am

        How does it do on the time trial frame? I’m wanting to do the same thing….Is the friction of the hub too much ? Do you recommend
        the setup ? I thinking about the Alfine instead of the Nexus.

      • Evan

        August 25, 2009 at 5:16 am

        Hub works well – I like Alfine because it was available in black (also I think its a latter generation unit – not exactly sure here?). I had to add a cable stop (pop-riveted to chainstay) for cable re-direction. Also jtek shifter is great (I don’t get commission). I also have a bar end brake lever rigged to pull both calipers on the other side to the Jtek.

        With respect to the friction I did not test without hub gear so not exactly sure, I don’t feel it though. Also in my setup I lack alittle top-end gearing.

  58. leonwoodbine

    March 11, 2009 at 5:13 am

    135mm spacing on Alfine is easy to change – I changed mine to 130mm for a while using a standard 3/8″ locknut on the non drive side and a thin washer. 130mm works great with a frame that is 126, because each chainstay/seatstay only has to move a fraction over 2mm, which is no problem at all. If your dropouts are aligned properly things should be fine. However, if you do machine some parts for your Alfine, show some photos! Internal gears hubs are fun…………….

    Reply
  59. dom

    March 24, 2009 at 9:37 pm

    I’ve just bought a Cannondale Bad Boy 8 Ultra. When setting off from traffic lights in any 5th gear and above, I get a spongy feel on the pedals before the back cog turns with the pressure of pedaling – If that makes sense. Does anyone know if this is normal or not?

    Reply
    • redchili

      April 27, 2009 at 2:41 pm

      dom, i think i know what you mean! this ’spongy’ feel lasts for just i tiny moment and feels like the firs few degrees of the turn have a gear reduction that smoothly and quickly ramps up to the selected gear?
      this seems to be somewhat normal i think, although i can’t explain it, but i noticed this as well.
      this can be reproduced when standing or near standing by pumping instead of fully turning the pedals.

      Reply
      • dom

        April 27, 2009 at 5:08 pm

        Thanks for the reply – That’s exactly it… I had someone else reply to my comment on a different site (I think) here’s what they said – might help.

        “double check your non-turn washers are seated firmly in the dropouts. And retorque your axle nuts too. The feeling you are getting should go away if everything is right.”

  60. Aarn

    March 25, 2009 at 1:01 am

    Hi there,
    This is a great site – I didn’t realise there was a worldwide network of IGH afficianados with (like myself) more time than good sense with which to strip these creatures!
    I have, or had, various hubs including Rohloff (bike stolen last year), Sturmey Archer torpedo-7 (not reviewed at this site), SRAM Spectro-7 (now fitted to Birdy with Schlumpf drive), SA8 (now fitted to older Dahon folder with Schlumpf drive), SRAM dual-drive (fitted to bike with triple chain ring, that means 81 gears), Sachs orbit 2×6 (still waiting to be built into a bike)….

    A couple of comments. At least one correspondent mentioned slippage between gears, despite correct alignment etc. When I experienced this problem with a spectro-7, a bikeshop guy suggested stripping the hub and sharpening the pawls. It took three days to take the thing apart, sharpen the pawls with a hand-held grinder, then put it back together correctly….. but this action certainly solved the slippage.

    I like a gear range of 18/110’’(600+%) – a bigger range than that afforded by any hub. I coupled the Rohloff hub to a 38/48 chainring set, which provided two éxtra’gears at the high end. The SA8 has direct drive first gear, but the 25 or 27t cog is too small to provide an 18”lowgear with, say, a 24t chainring. My solution – don’t tell SA/Sunrace about this – was to take a 42t solid BMX chainring and drill/grind it down to be a three-spline cog for the SA8. Took a lot of time and swearing but I eventually produced an almost symmetric cog (just need to keep the chain tension fairly high to prevent chain jump). Coupled with a Schlumpf drive, this provides a range of 750+%.

    The SA sprinter-7 (280%) is a nice hub. After opening it up for a service/degreasing (and pawl grind), the hub goes effortlessly in gear 1, gear 4 (direct drive), and gear 7 feels very light. No w am waiting on delivery of a Sachs elan 12-speed, deleted from their range years ago but a true prize for an old fiddler..

    Regards, Aarn (aarnaarn@hotmail.com)
    Ps. Of course, derailleur gears are technically more efficient but…

    Reply
  61. JohnnyJohnson

    March 31, 2009 at 7:39 pm

    I want to replace my 20T cog with a 16T cog. Is this possible?

    Reply
  62. leonwoodbine

    April 1, 2009 at 1:24 am

    Hi Dom,
    What hub does your BadBoy have? If it is Shimano nexus/alfine, double check your non-turn washers are seated firmly in the dropouts. And retorque your axle nuts too. The feeling you are getting should go away if everything is right.
    Cheers

    Reply
  63. Bernie

    April 10, 2009 at 9:52 am

    Dear Sir

    Came across your very interesting website.

    I have a Cannondale Bad Boy 8 Ultra 2009, with Alfine 8 speed hub. Although I like the bike and the hub I do think the bike is under geared. I have a 16T cog on the back and a 42T on the front. I find the gearing ratio in 5 and 6 not quite right when going up medium hills, also i find that I’m lacking speed in top gear as you feel you needs one or two more gears. I would like your advice in upgrading for more speed and a better midrange between the gears. I was thinking to upgrade the smaller cog to a 14T and a larger cog at the front to a 50 or maybe 52T. I keen to customized badboy ultra to a very fast road bike as I cycle many miles . I would much appreciate any suggestions and recommendation. Thank you

    Bernie

    Reply
  64. Mike

    April 10, 2009 at 10:54 am

    @ Bernie
    Hi M8
    You are obviously a very strong cyclist, but i am afraid you will have to make some compromises.If you look at the photo’s of the stripped hub in the maintenance section you will see what i mean,the internal gear ratios cannot be changed so you need to adjust the big ring & sprocket to get the range you can live with.My hub was fitted to a Specialized Globe Comp with 44/20 and even on my local run with little in the way of hills i was having a hard time(old and heavy) so i changed to a 38 ring and was still not confident it would be low enough geared for my lakes run.Was fortunate enough to get a red stripe hub off e-bay and gave that a run the other day,from the feel it appears to be slightly lower geared or the addition of the upgraded bearings is making it seem so. Regarding smaller sprockets i believe it is possible to modify shimano by filling away a portion of the locating splines so you should not have a problem there. No doubt Bob or someone will come back with better advise.
    If you have unlimited amounts of cash you could buy a Rohloff and that would solve the gearing but that will be a heavy wheel for a flier.
    Hope that is of some help.
    Regards
    Miker

    Reply
  65. leonwoodbine

    April 11, 2009 at 4:45 am

    Hi Bernie,
    Thought I would help you on your gearing concerns. I find using a gear chart helps clarify things immensely – it converts the ratios hidden inside our Alfine hubs into actual combinations that everybody knows from experience on the pavement. Your current ring/sprocket is 44/16T, which equals a top gear of 53/12T with your Alfine. This is a great gear for big downhills, you can really fly if your strong and the hill is steep. And only one cog away from the highest top gear normally used by the peloton on mountain stages and non-time trial stages of the Tour de France. (That being a 53/11T). Those professionals are immensely strong and powerful riders, but I have little use for a gear that high, with my Alfine equipped touring bike which I love. If your want an even higher top gear, a larger chainring is needed because sprockets smaller than 16T will conflict with the cassette joint – 16T is the smallest that work with your hub. A larger chainring, combined with the cog you are using now, would greatly sacrifice a low gear that is rideable up steep hills. For instance, a 52/16T with the Alfine would give a top gear equivalent of slightly higher than 56/11T, the largest/highest top gear normally used by the worlds elite cyclists for time trials. Quite a large gear, yes? My regards if you can spin that gear at 90 rpm! And the other end of the range, lowest gear is equivalent to 40/23T, 42/24T, and other combinations (39/23T is slightly lower). As Mike mentioned, compromises have to made, and the steps between the gears cannot be changed. No problem, because the effective range of the hub is easily and cheaply altered to suit the riders needs. The overall range is great, you have a very useful spread of gears, well suited for the intended use of this hub – which is most of us!
    Hope this helps.
    I love my Alfine!

    Reply
  66. Bernie

    April 12, 2009 at 6:03 pm

    Hi Mike & leonwoodbine

    Thanks very much for the reply back and the helpful information. I have cycled up many hills in which some are very steep indeed and i also have to fight against the strong southcoast winds of England. My low gears 1 to 4 in my Alfine hub in my Badboy Ulltra certaintly gets tested regularly! But most of the time i make it to the top! I have no problem just sticking in the 4 and 5 gear but the midrange is missing ln the long “drawn-out” hills! Gear 5 and 6 is where the problem starts. I cycle over 110 mile a week to work and cycle for fun with friends during the weekends, so im quite fit but on know level as those guys “Tour de France”

    My currently set-up on my Badboy ultra is a 18T rear cog and front crank is a Truvative Fire Ring 42T, my – wheels are DT Champion 700 with continental sport contact 28-622 tires, whith Avid Juicy 3 brakeset front & rear. My Badboy is very light and responsive but just needs that midrange and topend. I was interested in your comments concerning the gear ratios. I did think of having a gear ratio of 16T / 52 or maybe 14T /52 or 51/50. I have seen on the net (Harris Cyclery) i can get a 14T cog for alfine hub. I think i might have to gamble with my current set-up concerning the gear ratios. Any more suggestion would be much appreciated.
    Many thanks again for your very interesting advise.

    Bernie

    Reply
  67. leonwoodbine

    April 12, 2009 at 8:12 pm

    Hi again Bernie,
    Have you considered a double chainring setup with your Alfine? Shimano makes an Alfine chain tensioner specifically to do this, its not expensiive. Since you are using the lowest gear on your hub regularly (indicating its correctly sized for your riding conditions) and you need/want a higher top gear, it makes sense to add overall range to your drivetrain. Buy a second chainring, front derailleur and shifter, (Shimano makes a matching front Alfine shifter) and you can get all the range you want. Since you live in the UK you have many shops available to you that sell these parts, even some online. One downside is the steps between the gears (say 4, 5, 6) wont change, but that might be something you can get used to. After riding my Alfine for a good while, I just got used to the ratios and I dont feel hindered in any way – the gear choices are all fine (All fine, get it?). Here are some links in case you havent seen them:
    http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/nl/index/products/city___comfort_bike/alfine.html

    The chain tensioner is at the top right of the photo.

    Here is a page selling the parts:
    http://www.petracycles.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?search_in_description=1&inc_subcat=1&keywords=alfine&categories_id=&osCsid=g5o8s8snsvep6pvct4d9eomfi1&x=10&y=10

    Reply
  68. redchili

    April 27, 2009 at 2:29 pm

    thanks a lot for this nice page with those loads of useful information!
    i have been riding my scott street g1 with an alfine SG-S500 hub (26″ wheels) since september 2008 and was quite impressed so far. i estimate i’ve ridden >1500km since then mainly in urban, road and cross enviroments, even in snowy conditions at temperatures around -10°C during the past winter.
    i haven’t been brutal to my bike but for sure materials need to be solid and durable for my profile of use.
    to get a nicer chainline and to keep my 1/8 singlespeed chain from eventually touching the dustcap of the alfine hub, i mounted the 18t nexus rear cog (has no plastic rim as the alfine cog does) in the opposite direction, meaning with an outward lean instead of a snug towards the hub.
    this was all sound an fun until recently when the temperatures got a little warmer again (~15-20°C), when i noticed an highly disturbing crack followed by a maybe 1/6 – 1/5 free turn when pedalling with lets say over 95% power (sitting).
    i first noticed this only in 5th gear but was able to reproduce this behaviour through pretty much all gears now.
    i’ve looked around the net and found some hints that people had similar problems with their nexus’s (or nexi how bob once put it) hubs which seemed to result from problems with the shifting line (wrong tension, dirt, folded etc). i checked all this and futher tried various adjustment settings also a little besides the perfect match of the yellow indicators without any improvement! setting the single-point chain-tensioner a little of the middle seemed to slightly improve the situation but the cracks did still occur.
    now i am afraid that maybe an internal ratchet my have broken and wonder what to do about it. i fear i’m loosing any guarantee if i open the hub. or maybe shimano would not accept this claim for guarantee at all; anybody has an idea?
    i finally tried to turn the rear cog into the position it is normally mounted in yesterday and could yet not produce any more of those horrible cracks.
    it need maybe further testing but it seems pretty good for now. the thing is, that i couldn’t really find an explanation to this but found after looking closely at my rear cog, that the gaps between the teeth are fairly leaning to the pull-direction of the chain, so maybe this was the reason?!? i’ll get a replacement cog soon and will try that in the previous mounting position and report about this issue by then.
    if there are any further ideas, please don’t hesitate to let me know.

    @bernie: i wouldn’t suggest to get i too large ratio, switching from 42/16 to 50/16 is already quite a change. i would consider myself a medium to intermediate cyclist and currently have a 46/18 ratio, that i’ve become quite used to. sometimes i miss another top-gear and rarely use gears 1 and 2, but when i once tried a 16t rear cog, i found the steps between the gears somewhat too big, so i am trying to work on reaching higher pedalling frequencies and stick to my currently favourite setup.
    i once used a spreadsheet iv’e created to compare the options (equivalent to leons suggestion of a gearchart), you can find and use this speardsheet if you want: http://coma.cc/bike/.

    regards, red

    Reply
  69. bob carter

    May 6, 2009 at 11:12 pm

    Update on brake lever/gear changer with the Alfine:
    I got hold of a 2nd hand right shimano 8 spd. shifter/brake lever off ebay. I measured the indexed gear positions on the “sora” levers: this was 2.55mm per click. The same measurement on the alfine twistshifter was 5.45mm per click. I got hold of a “shiftmate” with a 1.6:1 ratio from chainreaction I think, took out the supplied pulley thing & made my own from aluminium alloy to give me a 2.1:1 ratio. This is actually a bigger ratio than the stock shiftmate is really capable of & I had to do a little bit of filing to get it in. Note also that the shiftmate pulley runs on a little sealed 4mm ball bearing, but the screw through the middle can not clamp it so the rotation is always ballrace inner on screw….
    whatever
    Anyway, it was all together today….. rode 30 miles…. did it work???? No not really… the deraillieur system seems to stop in different places depending on whether you go up or down the gears: this is amplified by the shiftmate & I basically found a lot of unpleasant clicky neutrals if I went down the box; it was only OK going up. This is not sufficient for a long term solution.
    So I’m afraid it will have to come off or I’ll ruin the hub.
    Next whacky scheme is to manufacture a new part for the innards of the sora lever so it indexes the right amount…. Watch this space ;^)

    Reply
  70. Claudio

    May 19, 2009 at 2:06 pm

    has anyone had any luck with re-assembling an alfine 501 hub Without the TL-8S30 carrier unit tool?? Can anyone provide close-up pictures of this tool?

    I have successfully cleaned and re-greased my hub but am having trouble getting the carrier unit back onto the axle unit. I did not dis-assemble/ touch the axle/clutch or driver unit.

    I am following the online published service manual for the nexus 8 speed hub that is on this website and am at step 13 of the re-assembly.

    I’m starting to wish I had not taken it apart, I would rather a fast wearing hub, than one that is in pieces!

    thanks in advance

    Reply
  71. Chris

    June 24, 2009 at 9:26 am

    Hello,

    I’m about to reduce the width of an Alfine “A” hub by shortening the locknuts etc.
    Can someone please tell me if the left hand bearing cone screws up against a shoulder on the axle?

    Chris.

    Reply
    • bob carter

      June 26, 2009 at 9:00 pm

      No you use the left screw to adjust the bearing cone & lock it with the locknut. Don’t tighten it up hard!
      BTW the bearing cone is on a larger diameter thread than the locknut, which is on the same thread as the outer axle nuts.

      Reply
      • Chris

        July 1, 2009 at 5:29 am

        Thanks Bob,

        Can I assume then that on the right hand side everything goes up against a shoulder somewhere and its position on the axle is set?

        I will have to remove both lock nuts and want to make sure the axial relationship between the axle and hub remains the same.

        I plan to reduce the width of the right one to 3mm and the left one to 4mm which should give me an o.l.d. of 126mm.
        The larger unused section of thread on the LHS would be turned down to 3/8″ in the lathe with the hub axle chucked at one end and the other end supported by the tailstock.

        Then the anti-rotation washer/s would have to be counterbored to accommodate the round section of axle that will now protrude through further.

        It’s not something I’m happy about doing, but the alternative of cold setting the stays on two very good frames appeals even less.

        bye,
        Chris.

      • bob carter

        July 1, 2009 at 11:46 pm

        I’ve certainly never moved anything on the RHS. If you do I’d check with all the changer (cassette) stuff on that it won’t foul on any of yr stays – there’s not a great deal of clearance round there!
        I’d say if you get the size over the locknuts down to within 5mm of the frame it will easily ’spring’ that far & not be too hard to get the wheel in… sounds like you’re trying to find 8mm or so & that’s gonna leave the locknuts wafer thin!!!
        You’ll also find that the axle flat on one side doesn’t go far enough for the non-turn washers to tighten properly, but a careful introduction to mr angry grinder will sort that out… ;^)

  72. Chris

    July 13, 2009 at 9:55 am

    Bob,

    Been delayed waiting for parts.
    Now have a spare set of non-rotation washers but couldn’t get spare locknuts.
    Not available here [Australia] as spare parts, not a good sign.
    I think as long as the lock nuts are of good quality material and thread, 3mm width shouldn’t be a problem.
    Ultimately the axial load from the axle nuts will apply far more locking force than the lock nuts ever will.
    I intend to bore out the non-rotation washer to accommodate the extra protrusion of the axle flats.

    I would like to get the width down as much as possible with this bike [Apollo III] as my No1 machine is narrow across the drop-outs and I have to look at a replacement for its Pentasport at some stage.

    Chris.

    Reply
  73. J

    July 26, 2009 at 7:54 pm

    Does anybody know any source for cogs/sprocket smaller than 16T or how/where I can make one? Thanks in advance.

    Reply
  74. leonwoodbine

    July 27, 2009 at 12:06 am

    Hi J,
    Cogs smaller than 16T are available but will conflict with the cassette joint on the Alfine/nexus/etc. This is not an issue with bikes with 26″ or larger wheels because of the effective ratio of a 16T is very large – it is actually a 10T, thats not a misprint, (technically 9.937) which gives a very tall gear not needed unless the bike has small diameter wheels such as 20″ or less. To clarify, top gear (8th)with a 16T sprocket is equivalent to 10T, and the difference in pedaling effort/cadence between 10T and 11T is significant. Compare the same effective gear in using a derailleur / cog system, it is 53/11T – this is when using a 48T with the 16T. My compliments if you can spin that gear at 90rpm! So cogs smaller than 16T just aren’t necessary for the bikes and types of riding intended, 99.9% of the time, which is for people like you and me. Hope this helps, just remember that changing the sprocket changes the effective ratio much more than the change in tooth count.

    Reply
    • J

      July 27, 2009 at 4:26 am

      Hi leonwoodbine,

      Thanks for the prompt reply. I will be using this hub in a folding bike with a 20″ rim (406). I had a 56T chainring and the smallest cog on the cassette was 11T. I felt this was still low to me. I used Sheldon’s IGH calculator and the highest gear is 105 GI (56T x 16T). I am looking to achieve a high GI between 125 – 135. I could also get a 60T chainring, but the 8th gear will still be below 120 GI. There are some hills where I live, but I was able to climb those in my fixie with 82 GI without an issue, so an Alfine with a low gear of about 45 GI will be good for me in case I need to ride in other areas. I have considered the SA8, but I don’t want to take that route due to the reliability issues and only one store is carrying the new (w) version, which cost as much as an Alfine, and there are no reports on how good the new hubs are. Therefore, I have been looking to install a cog smaller than 16T in the Alfine. Is it possible to achieve this maybe with spacers or shaving a bit of plastic from the joint? I am not able to do any mods for now as the hub is on the way. Thanks in advance for any ideas.

      J

      Reply
      • william wilson

        October 27, 2009 at 6:50 pm

        I am wondering how the alfine is working on your folder. Are you using a 16t sprocket and a chain tensioner? According to Shimano, if using a chain tensioner, only the CS-S500 sprockets with chain guard should be used. I can’t find one 18t in the states.

        It would be nice to know that I could get away using a 16t with no chain guard.

        I have a folding bike with 16″ wheels.

        William

  75. John

    August 1, 2009 at 3:40 pm

    Hello,

    I just had a wheel built with an Alfine 501 hub, I noticed the there is a black 7R lock washer on the right side (cog side), and a yellow 5R on the left… is this correct or does it not matter?
    Also, the adjustment window doesn’t come into view until I’m in fifth gear, not fourth, could this be a problem?

    Thank you.

    Reply
    • Chris

      August 3, 2009 at 5:43 am

      John,

      Doesn’t sound like your non rotation washers are correct.
      You need to measure the angle of the dropouts in degrees with a protractor and refer to the link/chart above under Maintenance/Installation.

      There are 2 stages to gear adjustment. The coarse adjustment is done by positioning the lug/nipple on the live end of the inner cable and the fine adjustment done with the thimble on the trigger selector.

      The home position for the changer on the hub is 1st gear.
      With the trigger selector set to 1st set the lug/nipple in a position along the cable so that once snicked into position on the hub changer there is the smallest amount of slack still in the cable. May take a couple of goes. Don’t overtighten.
      Move trigger to 4th and check alignment marks.
      Now adjust the thimble on the trigger selector to align the marks if necessary.

      Chris.

      Reply
  76. Chris

    August 5, 2009 at 9:17 am

    G’day,

    Has anybody attempted to liquify the Shimano factory grease by gently heating, with a view to dipping the hub centre for re-lubrication?
    If the internals are cleaned with an effective solvent bath, all lubricant will be stripped from every nook and it would be difficult to manually force grease back into these areas.

    Chris.

    Reply
    • Towman

      September 17, 2009 at 10:23 am

      I haven’t checked what the specification of Shimanos white grease is, but I doubt it’s very different to something like White Lithium grease, available in an aerosol can – that’s pretty liquid stuff that should get into all the nooks and crannies in the system given a good blast. It might be a better lubricant too as it never gets quite a solid as “normal” grease.

      Cheers
      Towman

      Reply
  77. Yuri

    August 6, 2009 at 12:15 pm

    Hi everyone,

    I am thinking of installing the Alfine 8 speed hub on my Nirve Switchblade chopper. It currently has a 3-speed Nexus which I am quite happy with but the roller brake is awful. I would like to switch to Alfine to install the disc brake (the bike weights more than 25 kg) and have larger range of gears.

    Do yo know how to find out if Alfine would fit in this bike? What measurements do I need to take and what parts will need replacement? I would have a new 24′ wheel built for it.

    Thanks

    Reply
  78. Morgan Patton

    August 17, 2009 at 1:56 am

    Alfine bearings crunching already!! I just finished a lugged frame/fork and built it up with an Alfine hub and belt-drive. I got the Alfine hub OEM from QBP – it just came in a plastic bag – no instructions, nothing. I have experience setting them up so I was able to assemble the bike just fine. The issue is that I have only put a couple hundred miles on the bike and the hub is making terrible bearing noises. I’m not sure if the tension of the belt (set up to correct Gates specs) is too much for it or if maybe OEM hubs are sent out dry? I am having a hard time finding all 6 tools required for the Alfine hub. Anyone have any suggestions? Ideas? Do I need all 6 tools to open the hub up and check it out?

    Reply
    • leonwoodbine

      August 20, 2009 at 10:59 pm

      Hi, that sounds disappointing about the noises with your new ride. Have you opened the hub up yet? The shimano tool to remove the right side cover/seal is needed (TL-AF10). After its off, normal cone wrenches are all thats needed to remove/look at the internal assembly and left side cone/bearings. To remove/reinstall the drive side axle bearings, you need two tools to do it professionally: Shimano TL-8S11 and TL-AF20. They are for the drive side cone and work perfectly without damaging it or the surrounding parts. The other tools are nice to have but not mandatory. From your message you are hearing bearing noise, so make 100% sure the bearings are functionally perfect before proceeding – the Alfine hubs are quiet hubs, so there is likely something wrong if noises are occuring. After inspecting the inside of the hub and bearings, confirm the noise: put a normal cog/chain on the Alfine hub and ride it to see if the noise is still there. If all is quiet, that should tell you if it is a hub problem or belt/interface/belt sprocket problem. There are too many variables without seeing the bike. The good news is that you can do a lot of diagnosis even without the Alfine tools (ie. ride it with a normal cog/chain and see if the noises go away). Hope you sort it out, but keep us updated – photos would be great!
      Cheers

      Reply
    • nick

      October 26, 2009 at 5:57 am

      Hi Morgan,
      I don’t have any tips for re-lubing the hub I’m afraid but I thought you might be able to advise me on setting up my own Alfine/Carbon Drive bike. I have tried numerous spacer combinations on the bb but couldn’t seem to get a stable setup with both correct tension and zero rub. Gave the bikeshop a go but they gave it back loose and rubbing. I’ve followed the instructions on the Gates website but maybe I’ve missed something. Any ideas?

      Reply
  79. John

    August 28, 2009 at 8:39 pm

    I’m not terribly convinced that a wheel I had built using an Alfine SG S501 hub was done correctly… The bike shop that did it had put on two right side (7R and 5R) non turn washers, and apparently the wrong cassette joint, both these issues have been corrected, but now I would like to know how much friction should there be? i.e. when you spin the cranks backwards, or the rear wheel.

    Thanks,
    John

    Reply
    • Anonymous

      August 31, 2009 at 2:41 am

      John, they are quite draggy when new, but loosen up considerably over a few hundred miles. Regarding bike shops; you’d be very lucky to find one with a clue about hub gears.
      BTW I’m pretty sure there’s nothing wrong with swapping sides with the non- turn washers; it just gives you more available drop-out angles. They come in matched pairs, the green & blue (on mine – vertical drop-outs) can be swapped over (L/R) to give a different cassette angle.

      Reply
  80. irn_bru_ce

    September 3, 2009 at 2:50 am

    i have an alfine 8 on my cannondale hooligan , fantastic bike for the urban environment , especially when the traffic builds up. the hooligan has 20″ BMX wheels and the current 42/16 setup means i never use the bottom 3 gears , so i have just purchased a truvativ omnium track crankset which comes with a 48t ring , but with the 144BCD will allow me to fit larger 1/8″ rings no problem. another thing with the hooligan , the disc brake acting on a 20″ wheel makes them stupidly powerful , but i upgraded the front to a 203mm rotor anyway

    Reply
  81. oar8

    September 6, 2009 at 8:13 am

    My first Nexus was a SG-7C20 bought as a complete new wheel. It laid around for a few years waiting on components to get it to work. Harris Cycle helped and I got the cassette joint and the bike is working, even without anti-rotation washers. It has 20T/41T/53T with an Alfine tensioner and wheels are 26 inch with fairly narrow street tires. Right now it is mainly used with the 53T since terrain around the office is pretty flat.

    The second SG-S500 Alfine came on a 2007 Rocky Mountain Metropolis hybrid bike. As compared to my 20lb Litespeed Obed modified for street use, it loses speed too quickly up a steep hill near my house. But the low end is low enough that I can still make it up the hill. This bike has 700C rims and tires are narrow street tires. Going downhill is great. The cogs are 16T/42T.

    The third one is a SG-8R20. It was a used hub bought on eBay. Unfortunately it has grinding noise. Now I am contemplating what to do with it.

    Reply
  82. thelazyrando

    September 13, 2009 at 6:12 pm

    Other than the hub shell & the ability to use disc brakes is there any advantage/difference to the Alfine and the Nexus 8 Red Band IGHS?

    cheers,

    Vik
    http://www.thelazyrando.com

    Reply
  83. Towman

    September 14, 2009 at 2:39 pm

    I have an Alfine SC501 fitted to an old MTB frame. It’s been used for a bit of gentle off roading and some commuting but in total has done less than 500 miles. So far it seems a good piece of kit but I have noticed that there is a definate “click” as the cog engages – it’s not particularly lound and doesn’t sound like bearings falling apart , but it’s there! To me it sounds like a pawl engaging slowly/without enogh lube but I haven’t taken the unit apart yet. I did manage to get in as far as removeing the drive side dust cover (why is a special tool needed??! It comes off with bare hands!)) and everything so far seems to have a good layer of Shimano’s finest white grease so I’m assuming inide is the same.
    Anyone have any suggestions as to what the click might be?

    Regards

    Towman

    Reply
  84. James

    October 10, 2009 at 9:44 pm

    I can only engage four of the 8 gears on my black alfine hub. The low ratio gears do not engage, the problem is inside the hub as far as I can tell, any suggestions?

    Reply
  85. william wilson

    October 27, 2009 at 6:37 pm

    I just received my Alfine and in reading the instructions I learned that I need a CS-S500 sprocket with chain guard, because I have vertical drop outs and will need a chain tensioner. I need it in the 18t version.

    I can’t find this part in the US. Is it available anywhere in the US?

    Reply
  1. 1 Shimano Alfine Reviews, Pictures, Maintenance, Installation and Drawings « Hubstripping.com Pingback on Oct 13th, 2007 at 8:20 pm

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